Café Chris

A four-century-old refuge where Dutch drinking culture comes alive

Tucked away on Bloemstraat in the heart of Amsterdam’s Jordaan neighborhood, Café Chris stands as a living monument to Dutch brown café tradition. With roots stretching back to 1624, this intimate establishment has witnessed nearly four centuries of Amsterdam’s evolution while preserving the authentic atmosphere that makes Dutch brown cafés treasured gathering places.

The moment you push open the door, the character of the space envelops you. Dark wooden beams cross overhead, their surfaces bearing the patina of generations. Stained glass windows filter the light, casting a warm glow across worn leather seats and a time-darkened bar. This is a brown café—a term the Dutch use for traditional pubs named for their dark wood interiors and walls that have absorbed centuries of tobacco smoke and conversation.

The Westertoren connection

Café Chris traces its origins to the construction of the nearby Westerkerk, one of Amsterdam’s most iconic churches. The Westerkerk was built between 1620 and 1631, with its distinctive 85-meter tower completed in 1638. Local tradition holds that Café Chris opened in 1624 as a beer house serving the workers building the tower, who reportedly came here to collect their wages.

According to historical accounts, the establishment originally had separate entrances—one for workers and another for masters—reflecting the social hierarchies of 17th-century Amsterdam. The legend suggests that workers spent much of their earnings on the premises after payday, making it an early example of strategic business location.

While this origin story has been passed down through generations, it’s worth noting that Café Chris claims the title of the Jordaan’s oldest café rather than Amsterdam’s oldest—that distinction belongs to Café Karpershoek near Centraal Station, which dates to 1606. Nevertheless, the connection to the Westerkerk construction remains central to Café Chris’s identity and contributes to its enduring appeal.

Inside the historic interior

The interior of Café Chris rewards close attention. Engraved ceiling beams bear Latin inscriptions and decorative carvings that transport visitors to an earlier era. A billiards table occupies the center of the compact space, where locals gather for games just as they have for generations.

The bar itself is a masterwork of dark wood, its surface worn smooth by countless elbows and beer mugs. Behind it, friendly staff pour drinks and share stories about the café’s colorful history. The atmosphere encourages conversation—there’s no television blaring or loud music competing for attention. Instead, the gentle hum of Dutch and international voices mingles in the cozy space.

One of the café’s most famous features is its tiny men’s toilet. Due to the building’s compact dimensions, the water cistern and flush chain are located outside the bathroom, within the bar area itself. This quirky arrangement means patrons must reach over to pull the chain after using the facilities—a feature that never fails to entertain first-time visitors and often earns applause from those seated nearby.

The Rembrandt connection

The painter Rembrandt van Rijn spent his final years living on the nearby Rozengracht, from 1658 until his death in 1669. Having moved there after financial troubles forced him from his grand house on Jodenbreestraat, Rembrandt lived in more modest circumstances in what was then a working-class neighborhood.

Local legend holds that the great master may have stopped by Café Chris for refreshment during this period, though no documentary evidence confirms this romantic notion. What’s certain is that walking from Café Chris to Rembrandt’s last address takes just a few minutes through the same Jordaan streets the artist would have known. He was buried in the Westerkerk—the very church whose construction gave rise to the café—where his remains rest in an unmarked rented grave.

What to drink

Café Chris maintains a focused selection of beers and spirits rather than an overwhelming menu. Brand beer, brewed by the Netherlands’ oldest brewery (operating since 1340 in Wijlre, Limburg), is a popular choice. The cafe also serves jenever, the Dutch gin that predates London dry gin and remains an essential part of brown café culture.

For the authentic experience, order a kopstootje—literally a “little headbutt.” This traditional Dutch combination pairs a tulip glass of jenever, filled to the brim, with a beer chaser. Proper technique requires slurping the first sip of jenever hands-free, bending down to meet the overfilled glass rather than lifting it. It’s a ritual that connects modern drinkers to centuries of Dutch tavern tradition.

The food menu stays intentionally simple: bitterballen (crispy fried meatballs served with mustard), cheese plates, and other traditional Dutch bar snacks. The emphasis remains on drinks and conversation rather than elaborate dining.

A local gathering place

Despite its reputation among visitors, Café Chris remains very much a neighborhood bar. Regular patrons claim their seats at the bar, greeting the staff by name and settling in for extended conversations. The café attracts a genuine mix of Jordaan residents, curious tourists, and Dutch people from other neighborhoods drawn by the authentic atmosphere.

Sitting at the bar is encouraged—it’s considered the best seat in the house and where the liveliest conversations happen. The staff and regulars welcome newcomers, making this a rare establishment where solo travelers can easily find themselves drawn into friendly discussion.

Visiting Café Chris

Address: Bloemstraat 42, 1016 LC Amsterdam

Opening hours:

• Monday–Thursday: 3pm–1am
• Friday–Saturday: 3pm–2am
• Sunday: 3pm–9pm

Payment: Cash only—bring euros as cards are not accepted

Getting there:
From Amsterdam Centraal Station, take tram 13 or 17 to Westermarkt. Walk west along Westermarkt, turn right onto Prinsengracht, then take your first left onto Bloemstraat. Café Chris sits at the corner, recognizable by its classic brown café facade. The walk from the Anne Frank House takes less than five minutes.

The café doesn’t accept reservations for regular visits—simply arrive and find a spot. Space is limited, and weekend evenings can get crowded, so afternoon visits offer a quieter experience with equally authentic atmosphere.

Why Café Chris matters

Brown cafés represent something essential about Dutch culture: the concept of gezelligheid, that untranslatable word encompassing coziness, conviviality, and the pleasure of good company. Café Chris embodies this spirit in its most traditional form.

In an era when many historic establishments have been renovated beyond recognition or replaced entirely, Café Chris maintains its authentic character. The worn wooden floors, the ancient light fixtures, the compact dimensions that force strangers into conversation—these elements create an atmosphere that cannot be manufactured or reproduced.

A visit here offers something increasingly rare: the chance to experience Amsterdam as it has been experienced for centuries, in a space where the present and the past exist in comfortable proximity. That the same walls may have heard Rembrandt’s voice, that the same bar has served generations of Jordaan residents, that the same compact toilet has amused visitors for ages—these connections to history give a simple drink profound resonance.

Frequently asked questions