Hidden in plain sight along the bustling Singel canal, De Krijtberg rises like a Neo-Gothic jewel, its twin spires reaching skyward in defiance of Amsterdam’s predominantly horizontal skyline. This remarkable Jesuit church tells a story of faith persevering through persecution, architectural ingenuity triumphing over spatial constraints, and a community that refused to let religious intolerance extinguish their spiritual flame.
From Hidden Chapel to Soaring Sanctuary
The roots of De Krijtberg stretch back to 1628, when Jesuit priest Peter Laurentius arrived in Protestant Amsterdam during an era when Catholic worship was forbidden in public. Like many Catholics of the time, the Jesuits created a “schuilkerk” (hidden church) – a clandestine place of worship concealed within ordinary buildings. In 1654, they established their secret sanctuary behind the merchant house called “De Crijtbergh” (The Chalk Mountain), giving the church its enduring name.
For over two centuries, Catholics gathered here in secret, entering through unmarked doors and climbing narrow stairs to reach their hidden sanctuary. The original clandestine church was rebuilt in 1677, but always remained concealed behind residential facades. This period of hidden worship created an intimate, resilient community bound together by shared faith and the daily risk of discovery.
Architectural Revelation
When religious freedom was restored in the Netherlands, De Krijtberg could finally emerge from hiding. In 1881, three canal houses were demolished to make way for a proper church. Architect Alfred Tepe, working within the narrow constraints of Amsterdam’s dense urban fabric, created something extraordinary – a church that soars upward rather than outward, making magnificent use of vertical space.
Tepe’s Neo-Gothic design draws the eye heavenward the moment you step inside. The narrow footprint forced creative solutions: galleries provide additional seating, while tall stained-glass windows flood the space with colored light. The exterior’s twin pointed towers announce the building’s sacred purpose to all who pass along the Singel, a dramatic departure from centuries of concealment.
The interior, designed by Friedrich Wilhelm Mengelberg, is a feast of color and craftsmanship. Gold leaf, deep greens, and rich reds create a warm, enveloping atmosphere that contrasts beautifully with the cool Amsterdam light filtering through the windows. Every surface tells a story through intricate paintings, carvings, and decorative details that reward close examination.
The Jesuit Character
De Krijtberg is dedicated to St. Francis Xavier, co-founder of the Jesuit order and one of Catholicism’s greatest missionaries. This dedication reflects the church’s own missionary spirit – maintaining Catholic faith in a Protestant city required the same dedication and adaptability that characterized Xavier’s work in Asia. The Jesuits continue to operate the church today, maintaining their centuries-old presence in Amsterdam.
The church’s Jesuit identity shapes its character as a place of learning and contemplation as well as worship. The order’s emphasis on education and intellectual engagement creates a welcoming atmosphere for questions and dialogue, making De Krijtberg a bridge between Amsterdam’s diverse communities rather than an isolated religious enclave.
A Narrow Escape and Glorious Restoration
The 1970s nearly saw De Krijtberg’s destruction when redevelopment plans threatened the building. The idea that this architectural and historical treasure could be demolished for modern construction sparked outrage among Amsterdammers of all faiths. The successful campaign to save the church demonstrated how deeply it had become woven into the city’s cultural fabric.
The subsequent restoration, completed in 2001, returned the church to its original splendor. Layers of grime were removed, revealing brilliant colors and intricate details that had been obscured for decades. A remarkable continuity links past and present: a 16th-century polychrome wooden statue of the Virgin Mary, the sole survivor from the first baroque church on this site, shares space with contemporary artworks like the abstract Holy Spirit installation from 2003.
An Open Door in the Heart of the City
Today, De Krijtberg stands as a testament to Amsterdam’s complex religious history and its evolution toward tolerance. The church maintains an open-door policy – anyone can enter to pray, admire the architecture, or simply find a moment of peace amid the urban bustle. This accessibility would have been unimaginable to the Catholics who once worshipped here in secret.
The church serves not just its congregation but the broader community. Cultural events, concerts, and educational programs ensure that De Krijtberg remains a living part of Amsterdam rather than a mere historical curiosity. Its location on the Singel, one of Amsterdam’s most beautiful canals, makes it a natural stopping point for those exploring the city’s architectural treasures.
Walking into De Krijtberg today, visitors experience a powerful sense of continuity. The same faith that once hid behind merchant house facades now celebrates openly in this glorious space. The church reminds us that Amsterdam’s famed tolerance was hard-won, emerging from centuries of conflict and compromise. In its soaring arches and brilliant windows, De Krijtberg embodies both the persistence of faith and the triumph of religious freedom – a hidden gem that finally, gloriously, need hide no more.
